Gentlemen, do you want to look stylish for the holiday season and the New Year? The suit is the male outfit, the timeless of the male dressing room, which is suitable for all special occasions.
What are the preferred materials?
Choosing the right costume depends on several factors such as the choice of the raw material used to make it. For this, it is advisable to turn to a noble material which will marry the lines of your silhouette and will lend itself skilfully to the season and your way of life.
Quality labels make it possible to evaluate the composition of the wool to help you make your choice. The “virgin wool” label corresponds to a product to which a maximum of 7% of other fibers have been added. This figure drops to 0.3% for the “pure virgin wool” label. The label “100% wool” or “pure wool” indicates wool of lesser quality or recycled wool. Favor pure and virgin wool of superior quality to obtain an impeccable fall and cut.
Super 110’s, Super 160’s… The size is the priority and decisive criterion for choosing the drape, comfort and solidity of your costume. This system classifies the fibers according to their thickness: the thinner the fiber, the higher its Super classification will be and conversely, the thicker the fiber, the lower its Super classification will be.
The number following the term Super represents the number of fibers woven per square centimeter. In this way, when the titration is high, the thin fabric may be more fragile and easily wrinkled.
The right compromise to obtain a comfortable, warm and wrinkle-resistant fabric is between 110’s and 150’s.
Fabrics that have a count greater than 150’s (150 fibers per square centimeter) are thin and more flexible and thus allow a better fall for the costume. I advise you to opt for its superior qualities for special occasions such as parties, galas or ceremonies.
Which jacket to choose?
Straight or double-breasted jackets are the most used on a daily basis.
The straight jacket: 1, 2, 3 or 4 buttons, know that the last button always remains open . Don’t forget that the button placket elongates the silhouette.
The double-breasted jacket: whatever the number of buttons, it is always closed for a question of aesthetics and allure.
We recognize a quality shirt with an impeccable fit when it is made of pure cotton . Cotton will ensure you a certain comfort. The making of a beautiful shirt also depends on the fineness of the stitches. The tighter the stitches, the more you will appreciate the sturdiness and fit of your shirt.
Mounting the collar:
The shirt must have stays at the collar to stiffen it (often sewn inside the collar). Pay attention to the stiffness of your collar, which is one of the first things you look at on a shirt.
It should be neither too tight nor too wide and should allow you to easily pass two fingers through it.
The cuff of your shirt should never be too long and touch your hand. It should protrude 1 cm from the sleeve of your jacket. In other words, the shirt covers the wrist bone and stops just before the beginning of your hand).
How to associate the shirt collar with your jacket?
It is recommended to match the shirt collar to that of your jacket. For example, a Mao collar shirt should be worn with a Mao collar suit jacket as well. However, you can afford associations:
If you have a long face, preferably choose an English collar or an Italian collar which will be in harmony with the morphology of your face. On the other hand, if you have a round, fairly wide face or a short neck, choose long collars such as the French or American collar.
I hope gentlemen that this article has clarified some of your questions, do not hesitate to let me know in the comments of your opinions and other questions. The tie and the different knots will be the subject of a future article.
